This
writing is about a film I watched a couple of weeks ago and has become one of
my favorite films.
Chasing
Mavericks is a film made in 2012 based on a true story.
The
plot is about the life of the surfer Jay Moriarity. First he's about to die
when he is 8 years old when he is saved from drowning by his next door neighbor,
surfer Frosty Hesson. This ignites his passion for the sport.
When
he was 15 years old, he discovered that Mavericks, the biggest waves in
the world and some of the most dangerous, are coming to Santa Cruz, California. He then decides to surf them. In order to survive and be able to surf them, Jay askslegendary surfer Frosty, his neighbor, for training.
Reluctantly,
Frosty gives him a physical and mental training during 12 weeks, and insists
that Jay learns about the "fundational pillars of surfing". These
involve him learning to paddle board 36 miles from Santa Cruz to Monterey Bay,
treading water for 40 minutes and being able to hold his breath for four
minutes.
After
that, Jay goes to surf Mavericks to Half Moon Bay. Jay wipes out at first, but
then retrieves his board and successfully rides Mavericks. At the end of the
film it's revealed that he married Kim and died at age 22 while free-diving in
the Maldives. The film ends with Frosty, Kim, and an assemblage of others
holding a surfers' memorial service for Jay.
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